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l. E. CHALIVIAN, HEMMER FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED Aue.s. 1917.

l 805,253 Patented June 3, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEEF 1 WW SW J. E. CHALMAN.

HEMMER. FOR sewms MACHINES. APPLICATION FILED AUG- 3, 1917- 1,305,253. 1 Patented June 3, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

, chines,

JOHN E. CHALMAN, or CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

HEMMER FOR snwnvevmonmns. I

Application filed August 3, 1917.

To all whom it may concern: I

Be it known that I, JOHN E. CHALMAN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of Illinois, have invented certain new provements in Hemmers for Sewing-Mm tion, reference being hadto the accompany- .ing drawing and to thefigures of reference marked thereon.

'The invention relates to new and useful improvements in folders for sewing machines and more particularly a folder for turning underneath an edge offabric to form a hem therein.

An object of the invention is to provide a folder of the above character having a folding recess for forming a hem fold in the fabric wherein the inner wall of the folding recess is free from projecting portionsextendin beyond the stitching line, whereby the f0 der may be used for completing a circular hem.

A further object of the invention is to provide a folder of the above character wherein a section of the folder at the delivery end thereof is capable of being shifted or moved so as to relieve the initially formed hemfrom undue friction as it passes through the folder in the completing of the circular hem, and to create sufficient space for the removal of the completed hem.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a folder of the above character wherein the movable section may be shifted at the will of the operator, and without stopping the stitching mechanism. y

, In the drawings, which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the inventlOII; v v

Figure 1 is a plan view showing a portion of a sewing machine with my improved folder applied thereto; 4

Fig. 2 is a front view of the same; Fig. 3 is a sectional view through the folder on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1;

Fi 4 is a view sim'lar to Fig. 3, but showing the movable section of folder withdrawn; v

' Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the folder with the movable section thereof withdrawn: 7

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the .line 6-45 Specification of Letters Patent.

and useful 1111- of which the following is a descrip-- base plate also guiding member 10 which is secured thereto by screws 11-11. These twowalls 4 Patented June 3, 1919.

Serial Nb. 184,269.

for sewing machines having a folding recess for turning underneath the edge of a fabric to form a hem. This folding recess formed by vertical guiding walls carried by the base of the folder, one of said guiding walls extending above the other and being provided with a turning flange so that the fabric to be folded may be led into the recess at thetop and be turned underneath. The inner wall is free from portions projecting beyond the line of stitches, so that the initially stitched part of the hem may pass through the folder without being obstructed thereby. A section of .the folder at the delivery end thereof is made movable and this is controlled by the operator at will without stopping the stitching mechanism, so that The machine is provided with a stitching mechanism, the needle of which is indicated at 4. The stitching mechanism is adapted the completed hem to to produce a straight line of stitching and the stitching line is indicated at iv-m in Fig. 1. The material to be stitched is led through my. improved folder, which consists of a base plate 5, on which is mounted a vertical wall or guiding member 6. This vertical wall is carried by a shank 7 having slots 8-'- 8 adapted to receivescrews 9-9 whereby said vertical Wall or guiding member may be adjusted and fixed in adiusted ositions. The carries a-second vertical wall are fixed relative to each other. and to the stitching line during the normal operation of the machine. The vertical wall 6 is concave on its inner face and is provided with an overhanging flange i2 ,at-. its upper end. The vertical wall '10 is also slightly con cave at its innerface and terminates some tion is folded l5 i The needle passes downwardly j end' of the bar.

7 must distance below a horizontal plane containing the overhanging flange so that there is a space between the upper end of the wall 10 and the flange l2.

The invention is particularly adapted forturning a hem fold for the forming of a circular hem. In Fig. 8 of the drawing I have shown a fabric at 7 having a hem formed therein. The edge ofthe fabric is continuous, and the hem extends allthe Way around, thus forming what I term a circular hem. The material is led into the folder underneath theflange l2 and the edge poraround underneath to form a hem, as shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings. through the fabric and through the edge of the hem as clearly indicated in Fig. 8. It will be noted that the initially stitched part of the hem pass through the folder in the completing of the circular heme The vertical wall 10 is free from any projection extending across the stitching line indicated at w-w in Fig. 1, and, thereforathisl circular hem is free to pass through the folder at the receiving end thereof without the parts of the folder obstructing the same, either by binding the finished hem or by engaging the stitches formed in the hem. provided with a movable section at the delivery end thereof. This movable section is indicated at 13 in the drawings. Said movable section includes a vertical wall 14, which forms one portion of the delivery end of the folder and also forms. a continuation of the wall 10. The supporting shank 15 of the movable section 13 is secured to a bar 16 by means of a bolt 17. Said movable section of the folder has a forwardly projecting base plate 18, which extends underneath the wall-6 of the folder. 1 The inner end 19 of this movable section is adapted to engage a shoulder 20. The bar 16 is normally pressed to the right by means of; a spring 21. This spring bears against a collar 22 fixed to the end of the bar and a shoulder 23 carried by the supporting bracket 24: on which the y folder is mounted. The base plate 5 for the folder is attached to this bracket 24 by means 1 of -screws-26, 26.

The bar-16 is moved to the left against the tension of the spring 21 by a rock lever 27 pivoted at 28 to the standard 2 of the machine. Said rock lever. is formed with a bracket 29 adapted to make contact with'the A spring 30 normally presses the upper end of the rock lever to the right. A treadlef-ll (see Fig. 7) is connected by a suitable flexible connection 32 to a the rock lever.

In the operation of my device, the fabric is inserted in the folder in the manner shown in Fig. 3. As the fabric-passes through the folder, the hem fold is formed and directed I The folder iswill enter the fabric and the hem fold and stitch the same. The initially stitched part of the hem fold when it reaches the receiving end of the folder will freely pass into the same. At this time the operator without stopping the machine will press-the treadle which shifts the movable section of the folder, to the position shown in Fig. 4. This opens the delivery end of the folder, so as to permit the finished hem to pass readily therethrough without binding or undue-friction. Furthermore, by this shifting of the movable section away from the flange 12, I I

1 from the spirit of my invention asset forth in the appended claims.

, hat is claimed is: LA folder for sewing machines for stitching circular ,hems. said folder having spaced walls forming a hem folding recess. said walls being shaped so as to be free from projecting portions extending between the hem and the body of the material and crossing the stitchingline. whereby the initial stitched portion of the hem may pass through the folder for the completing of the circular hem. I A folder for sewingmachines having a hem-folding recess, the inner wall of which is free from projectingportionsextending beyond the stitching line, whereby a circular hem may be completed and stitched, said the folder, the inner wall of said folder at the deliverv end thereof being movable away from the outer wall to permit the initially stitched portion'of the hem to freely" pass through the folder. v

, 4. The combination with stitching mechanism including a needle, a folder, said folder having spaced inner and outer vertical walls forming a hem-folding recess, the outer wall having an overhangin flange located above and spaced from the inner wall. said inner wall at the receivingend of the folder being free from projecting portions extending beand the stitching line, whereby .the initially stitched portion of the hem may pass through the receiving end of the folder.

5. The combination with stitching mechaouter wall-having an overhanging flange located above and spaced from the inner wall, said inner Wall at the receiving end of the folder being free from pr0]ect1ng portions extending beyond the stitching line, wherebv the initially stitched portion of the hem may pass through the receiving end of the folder. said folder atthe delivery end thereof having a movable section capable of being shiftedlaterally to permit the initially stitched portion of the hem to freely pass through the delivery end of the folder.

6. The combination with stitching mechanism including a needle, of a folder, said folder having spaced inner and outer vertical walls forming a hem folding recess, the outer Wall having an overhanging flange located above and spaced from the inner wall, said inner Wall at the receiving end of the folder being free from projecting portions extending beyond the stitching line, whereby the initially stitched portion of the hem may pass through the receiving end of the folder. said folder at the deliverv end thereof having a movable section capable of being shifted laterally to permit the initially stitched portion of the hem to freely pass through the delivery end of the folder, and means for shifting said movable sections at the will of the operator, and Without stopping the stitching mechanism.

7. A folder for sewing machines including spaced inner and outer vertical Walls having their inner faces concaved and forming a hem-folding recess, said \vallsbeing fixed relative to each other at the receiving end of the folder, the inner wall of said folder at the deliverv end thereof being movable away from the outer wall to permit the initially stitched portion of the hemto freely pass through the folder, and means for shifting said movable section at the ivillfof the operator and without stopping the stitching mechanism.

In testimony whereof, I atlix my signature, in the presence of two Witnesses.

v JOHN E. CHALlVlr-XN.

Witnesses:

CLARENCE G. LINDEMANN, S. GEORGE TATE. 

